December 24, 2006 – Camp Hero, Long Island, New York

Camp Hero, located on the South-Eastern tip of Long Island, NY has been the inspiration for popular folklore and tales of paranormal activity, government conspiracies, and military cover-up’’s. Fort Hero was established in 1929, named after Major General Andrew Hero, Jr to protect Long Island’’s vulnerability against invasion. During World War II, the US Army upgraded Fort Hero to Camp Hero in 1942. In November, 1957 the Army closed the military portion of Camp Hero since advancing technology made the installation obsolete. The Eastern portion of the site was donated to New York State, but it remained unused because of its close proximity to a high-security facility. Radar Tower using GPS through the tough underbrush.

The Air Force officially shut down radar operations on July 1, 1980, leaving the huge radar dish “abandoned in place.” They removed its controlling motors and electronics which allows the dish to move with the wind. The dish now serves only as a navigation aid to ships and general aviation aircraft. The site, Camp Hero State Park, was opened to the public on September 18, 2002. The NYS Department of Parks and Recreation petitioned the Federal Government to change the camp into a golf course, but was denied. There are plans in the works for a museum and an interpretive center that will focus on World War II and Cold War history.

Folklore and legends surrounding Camp Hero were the inspiration for the Philadelphia Experiment, which includes tales of brainwashing, mental telepathy, 4th dimensional creatures, secret underground bases, women and children being confronted and intimidated by men carrying automatic weapons, military style aircraft which continue to circle the area, and HAARP– the futuristic nightmare project which is supposed to beam massively powerful radio signals into targeted regions of the ionosphere.

We began our planned assault on Camp Hero by gathering intelligence, aerial reconnaissance, and GPS map coordinates. We had planned to park a mile away in the parking lot where many fisherman stop, so as not to attract attention to ourselves. We would walk along the road – and if stopped by armed patrols we would retreat and proceed along the beach, cutting into the woods behind the patrols in a half-pincer movement, making our way to the radar tower using GPS through the tough underbrush.

Once we arrived, we improvised “Plan B,” as we drove to the base of the tower following clearly marked signs to the pubic parking area. Although the group of buildings near the infamous radar tower were fenced off, there was a section labeled “Picnic Area” close-by. A kiosk provided maps and historical data on the facilities. We immediately noticed the absence of guards with automatic weapons as we parked to assemble our investigative gear. We also noticed the absence of any aircraft whatsoever, military or general aviation.

Our general impressions of the area was that it was “creepy” and the radar dish was big, ugly, Gothic, and sort of Frankenstein-ish. The hanging vines and low scrub pines cast eerie shadows along the dirt trails, which were still muddy from the previous day’’s rain. We dismissed the stories of women and children being chased away by armed guards. In fact, typical of most New York State parks, the picnic area and public facilities were well-kept and inviting – if you don”t mind having a picnic at the base of some WW-II junk.

On December 24th, 2006 at 15:00 we hiked South along Col. John Dunn Road to the Transmitter Building, #103 and took some environmental readings.

It was 55 degrees Fahrenheit at 39% humidity. The ground was damp and muddy. No RF, HF, LF, or natural electrical fields were present. All instruments measured dead zero, but we had two bars on our cellphone thanks to a tower about five miles down the road.

There was one power line running through the woods just south of the radar dish. At a distance of roughly 40 feet, I observed 10mg of magnetic radiation – indicating the power to be live. However, no electricity appeared to be running to any of the buildings.

Our team also did some background research on HAARP. Rather than being some sort of ionic death ray based underground in the flooded structures beneath Camp Hero, the HAARP project turns out to be located in Gakona, Alaska in a facility along Tok highway. The actual phased array transmitter array is on 33 acres and consists of 180 towers, each 72” in height. So, if HAARP has been hiding at Camp Hero, it’’s the best camouflage job in history. We also checked the air navigation charts for the area. There are no flight restrictions or NOTAM’’s. If Camp Hero was still an active military base, I would expect the military to put up a “no fly” zone directly over the base. We dismissed any military conspiracy theories.

We found Camp Hero to be dead quiet with no electrical, RF, paranormal, or military activity. The scariest attribute of the area are the indigenous deer ticks. Ground surveys are ongoing to look for UXO’’s (Unexploded Ordinance) since the US Air Force used it for target practice between 1951 and 1957. If there are anyone scaring away visitors, they are most likely property owners from the next town over. Our conclusions are that nothing is going on at Camp Hero except the gradual decay of half-century old buildings and rusting antique military hardware. If you”re looking for a great place to relax after photographing the Montauk Lighthouse, follow the signs to the picnic area at Camp Hero – but, be prepared to pay a nominal entrance fee during the peak season.

Which is better for gathering evidence? Film or Digital cameras?

Which is better for gathering evidence? Film or Digital cameras? by h. butz

It is a much debated issue; what type of camera is best to use to gather evidence of paranormal activity. Unfortunately, there is no official field guide for spirit photography. Common sense tells us that, if we can see it, then we can photograph it. If the object only appears on film, but not with our eyes, then we should be highly skeptical of the results. Any camera in existence today is considerably *less* sensitive than our own eyes. Compared to our own eyes, any camera sees less color, less light, and absolutely no depth perception.

Some ghost hunters will tell you that a digital camera is best for capturing orbs. Let’s examine everything wrong with this statement. There is nothing special about digital photography. In fact, digital is inferior to film technology.

An “orb” – the term coined for a visible ball of energy, is often the result of poor photography. Logic tells us that if an orb is invisible unless taken with flash photography, then the orb is the result of the flash. Indoors, a camera needs a great deal of blinding light for the image to be recorded on film, even more light for digital photography. Our eyes do not have enough time to adjust to the bright flash of a camera. For as sensitive as our eyes are, human eyes require as long as 30 minutes to adjust to a change in brightness. We can never see exactly what the camera sees during flash photography since the flash only lasts for a fraction of a second.

What is the camera seeing? In most cases, orbs which are only present during flash photography are dust specs. Tiny particles of dust are floating and roaming freely about us all the time. We do not see floating dust particles because they are so tiny, dark, and lost in the back-lighting of the room. Our eyes ignore these tiny dark particles.

But, when a flash fires, the dust particles close to the camera become brightly lit compared to the surrounding walls of the room. The “inverse-square” law tells us that a dust spec which is 1 foot away from the camera is 16 times brighter than a wall which is 4 feet away or 64 times brighter than a wall 8 feet away. If you are standing outdoors in a field at night and take a flash photograph then the only objects which will be illuminated will be dust, pollen, and insects – and, these objects will be roughly 100 times brighter than anything else in the picture. The result? An “orb” is often produced through the magic of flash photography and the “inverse-square” law of exposure.

Why are digital cameras more susceptible to orb trickery? Four aspects of the digital photography process are to blame for abnormal, though not paranormal images.

1) Pixel size. A pixel is the smallest element which makes up a digital photo. Generally speaking and not to get into “Bayes algorithm,” a digital camera pixel is a solid color rectangle created by mixing Red, Green, and Blue colors. In low light conditions, a single pixel may have problems determining the correct mix of R, G, B – often producing a single pixel of Red or Blue. The camera could also suffer from a slight defect known as a “stuck pixel” or “dead pixel.” This tiny spec of “off-color” appears as a spec of color against a black background, but it does not really exist. Film cameras are not as susceptible since film grain (the equivalent of a digital pixel) is much smaller. While tiny off-color specs are still produced with a film camera in low light, they are lost in the photograph and averaged out.

2) Jpeg image compression. Especially in low-end digital cameras, photographs are stored in memory using a technique to “crunch” or “fold” the image into a space 1/3 the original size. This is known as image compression. Simply put, if 3 pixels in a photograph are all red and all located right next to each other, then the pixels will be “folded” into a single red pixel. This saves space. Unfortunately, when the image is “unfolded” and the red pixels are put back, some of the other color specs are lost. In a brightly lit photograph, the damage is not noticeable to the eye. But, in a dark field or dimly lit room the damage will appear as rectangular streaks which are not really there. Film cameras do not suffer from this affliction.

3) Digital Noise. This is what causes our stereo amplifier to hiss and hum when the volume is turned up with no music playing. We see this in the form of “snow” when watching a weak signal on television or if our dish is misaligned. Digital cameras have a type of “snow” which appears in the image in low light. High-end digital SLR cameras have a noise cancellation mechanism which works by taking two photographs: The first photograph is taken normally. Then, a second photograph is taken without opening the shutter. If any “snow” is found on both images, it is removed. On low-end digital cameras, the digital noise appears as streaks against a dark background. In cameras which have an adjustable ISO sensitivity, higher ISO settings have more digital noise.

4) Reflections. Low-end cameras, both film as well as digital, suffer from internal reflections. This comes from the physics of lens design. You should realize that you are “converting” three-dimensional space into a two-dimensional photograph. Where we once had height, width, and depth – now, we have only height and width. We do this with a round piece of glass (which causes spherical aberration) . Light must be bent, refracted, pillowed and pin-cushion (which causes image distortion). As we bend light, the colors separate (known as chromatic aberration), which must then be spliced back together. Using computer assisted modern optical design, several lens “elements” are packaged together to create the modern camera lens. But, as light is passed from element to element, some light is reflected off the element surface. High-end cameras use a thin chemical coating to suppress reflections. But, in low-end cameras, internal lens reflections may be a problem.

If a bright light source is in the room such a flash strobe or light bulb then a reflection could be seen in the final photograph. Even if the flash is not seen within the viewfinder, light may sneak in from the sides of the lens – which will appear as an “orb.” Any flash photograph can produce orbs, reflections, and streaks. Low-end film cameras are also susceptible to reflections. If there are any bright “pin point” light sources, such as flash strobes, lamps, candles, or if there are any windows or shiny surfaces which can reflect light sources then an “orb” may be the reflection off the window or inside the lens itself.

Let me touch on another source of “orbs” while we are on the topic: Infrared video cameras. Just about any infrared surveillance camera or camcorder works on the same principle as an ordinary camera. They can *not* see in the dark. They are simply sensitive to lower frequency light waves. The color of light as perceived by our eyes is a function of light frequency, measured in nanometers. Visible light is between 400 and 700nm. Infrared light is just “next door” at 750nm. While our eyes do not respond to infrared light, some cameras do. They still must use powerful light sources – they just operate at a slightly higher frequency which we cannot see with our own eyes. So, everything we have discussed about reflections, dust particles, and the “inverse-square” law applies to infrared photography as well.

Here are my conclusions. Digital photography suffers from image compression, pixel resolution, and digital noise. But, any low-end camera, either digital or film camera can be adversely affected by bright flashes and reflections. Digital cameras are wonderful for capturing and viewing photographic evidence quickly. High-end digital cameras will work better, thanks to better optics and noise reduction techniques. If you decide to use a film camera and you send your film “out” to be developed, please only use slide film and ask that the lab “do not cut” your film. A print made by a photo lab introduces other factors, such color correction, exposure correction, and whatever dust, dirt, and reflections are present in the lab or introduced by an inexperienced lab technician. Remember the photographic evidence is only as strong as its weakest link. If you send a lab a roll of film with only just a few specs of light on it, they could throw your best photographic evidence into the garbage!

An Entity Drained All My Batteries!

“An Entity Drained All My Batteries!” – a true story inspired by TAPS by h. butz

I have heard many accounts of paranormal investigators being caught in the dark when their flashlights, camcorders, and digital cameras were suddenly drained of all their energy. The prevailing theory is that an entity e.g. a “ghost” used the energy in an attempt to manifest itself. Amazingly, this only effects the batteries which are being used at the time – not spare batteries. Ghost hunting experts will tell you to bring extra batteries to replace those “eaten” by spirits.

This is an excellent example of how myths and folklore are built upon circumstantial evidence without understanding the related engineering and physics. The observation that a battery is depleted is often based on an indicator which is built into the camera. That is, when you put fresh batteries into a digital camera or camcorder, an indicator shows the remaining battery life. But, how does your camera make this determination and why are you putting so much faith in it? An engineer knows the answer.

Let’s examine this scenario. You enter a dark passage and suddenly your flashlight quits. Did a ghost use up all your battery’s energy? That would be one hypothesis and the reason why paranormal investigators do what we do. There is a second possibility, introduced by our friend Murphy. Murphy’s law states that “Anything which can go wrong will go wrong and at the worst possible time.” Actually, Murphy’s Law is a matter of human perception. You keep a flashlight in your toolbox until you enter the dark passage. The flashlight would have quit anyway, but since you only use the flashlight when you really need it, then the failure of the light will always occur when you are in a dark passage – that is “at the worst possible time.” If the flashlight fails during the day or when it is off then you would have not considered it remarkable.

There is a scientific explanation as to why camcorders and digital cameras are apparently and suddenly drained of all their energy. But, a real scientist would not state the observation this way. We would say that the battery indicator jumped from 100% full charge to 12% almost dead in a few seconds. We cannot assume that the battery indicator reflects the amount of energy contained in the battery, unless the indicator is calibrated and can be traced to an independent source, preferably the National Institute of Standards and Technology. But that would drive up the cost of the camera. Most likely, the cost of the camera was kept low by using a very inexpensive, inaccurate method to determine the life of the battery, such as an uncalibrated op-amp or integrated circuit. A true scientist would not place such faith in a battery life indicator.

The chemistry of a battery changes over time and temperature. Rechargeable and Lithium batteries tend to provide the same voltage over its useful life, making it difficult to tell how much energy remains. By contrast if you install Alkaline batteries into a flashlight then it will shine brightly for a few hours. Gradually it will dim and finally fail. Lithium batteries, which are found in camcorders and digital cameras behave differently. They provide full power for most of their life, then suddenly die without much warning.

Often, a battery life indicator is a stopwatch which records how much time was spent charging and how much time was spent running. If the chip knows that it takes 6 hours to charge the battery, but only 2 hours to discharge it, then a depleted battery which is charged for 3 hours will be at 50% capacity. This percentage is what is displayed on the camcorder. But, how accurate is this?

Engineers have a saying, “In the real world, everything is brown and fuzzy.” There is a mathematical formula which is used to determine the time needed to charge a battery and the life remaining. These formulas are stored in the chip for the battery which is used. In the “real world,” you might charge the battery for 22 minutes, run it for half an hour, charge it overnight – but, it quits charging after 4 hours, then run it for 78 minutes, then charge it for another 49 minutes. If you started with a full charge, and it takes 6 hours to charge it but only 2 hours to discharge, what is the percentage life remaining? Yikes.

Well, it was an engineer who designed a “battery charging chip” which knows the formula needed to charge a lithium battery. This chip is built into the battery itself. As soon as you plug the battery into the camera, the battery and camera “talk” to determine the remaining battery life. It may also double-check its life by sensing how much current is being provided by the battery. Then, a “magical number” appears on the screen, such as 78 minutes or 25% left – a number which some blindly accept as fact.

Does this “battery charging chip” make mistakes? All the time! As we know, “In the real world, everything is brown and fuzzy.” The internal chemistry of the battery changes over time and temperature and no two batteries are exactly the same. Just a small miscalculation by the chip can suddenly make the battery life indicator jump from 86% charge to 16% charge after the chip realizes that it made a mistake. Where did all that energy go?

The answer is, the energy was never there to begin with. The chip is also designed to prevent overheating and overcharging. If the chip thinks that the battery is at 100% capacity, it will not let it charge. The camera will report a full charge until the chip corrects its mistake. By then, it’s too late and the camera goes dead. Digital cameras which are powered by lithium batteries can and do die suddenly. This is not paranormal. This is the “real world” – a world which is “brown and fuzzy” and not “black and white.”

Flashlights go dark at the worst time because we only use flashlights in the dark, which is the worst time for them to fail. Cheap batteries can leak and cause a sudden failure, even if the batteries are “fresh.” Never rely on cheap batteries. Try to keep track of how many hours you have used your flashlight and replace batteries frequently. Please recycle. Cheaply made flashlights have copper or tin contacts and poor switch design. Since they are low voltage devices, the slightest bit of tarnish or corrosion will cause the flashlight to go dim. Use high quality flashlights which have gold plated contacts and o-ring seals which resist corrosion. The very first time your flashlight flickers or if you need to bang it to make it work, buy a new flashlight because the one you are using is damaged and cannot be repaired or trusted again.

Paranormal Investigators need to become more familiar with the physics and science behind simple devices such as batteries and flashlights before plunging out into the dark to discover the mysteries of the universe.

December 2, 2006 – East End of Long Island, New York

We were given the opportunity to conduct a preliminary investigation of a residential home on Long Island. The house was built in the late 1800’s, an ordinary-looking home except for the low ceilings inside which was done to conserve heat. Reports included objects being misplaced, light switches turning on and off, doors opening and closing, and at least one ghostly apparition of a domestic cat – this is in addition to the three cats which freely roam the house.

The conditions of our investigation were that we be discreet and we needed to perform all of our work during a noisy dinner party. We thought it a good idea to check the place out before we brought in the heavy gear. I brought a small bag of instruments, including a tri-field natural field meter and several small compasses.

None of the compass needles moved at any time during our investigation. I placed the tri-field meter on the dining room table and the needle jumped wildly for five minutes with peaks of nearly 10 milligauss. I moved the meter into the area where the “ghost cat” was spotted.

In the second room, the needle did not show any movement when observed for another five minutes. No movement showed on any of the small compasses. I then placed the needle on a table next to a burial urn which contained the ashes of a close relative. After the meter settled down, I observed what appeared to be a heartbeat pattern. There were two peaks on the needle, one at 3mg, followed by a peak at 2mg a second later, followed by 2.5 – 3 seconds of quiet, a thump-thump, thump-thump rhythm.

I searched for alternate sources of EMF radiation and regrettably found a near-by source which could have contaminated my findings. I was using an insulated lunch bag to carry my equipment. It is a rectangular canvas bag with a padded lining, designed to be a good-quality, stylish insulated bag – about the size of small camera bag but at a fraction of the price. The insulation inside the bag was apparently crushed Styrofoam or other similar type of material. Styrofoam maintains a constant, “natural” EMF field. When I moved or crushed the bag, the needle on the tri-field meter jumped.

I moved the bag ten feet away and placed it on the floor. By this time, the needle had stopped moving.

During this time, my partner reported seeing the door in the dining room open and close for a period of about five minutes. It was described as perhaps the effect of a small animal, such as a cat, trying to push or pull the door open. The door had almost random movements, opening slowly a bit, the jerked sharply in the opposite direction.

We look forward to conducting a more formal investigation when the residents feel comfortable with us bringing in video equipment. As it stands now, they are concerned that paying too much attention to their resident spirits could cause the activity to become malevolent. If any of us had to describe the “feeling” of the house, we all would agree it is “cozy,” “comfortable,” or “restful” – probably not what you would expect to find in an alleged haunted house.

To be continued…